Відео

It doesn't really matter the infill you use. Typically I use 20%

That's awesome! You are going to love participating in Maker Faire. It's hard work but it's worth it, in my opinion. You can expose your projects as you prefer. Each maker has their own way to present their projects. Some visitors like the details on how things work, others prefer a quick summary of what the object is. It's very dynamic. I adapt to the person I'm talking to. I only go into details when they ask about a particular project they are interested in. Keep trying new things and see what works for you. Good luck

@@interlinkknight Thank you! I did learn a lot from my first exhibit, and will try new things until it feels right. I'm kind of the mad scientist type who works best when hiding in his lair, err, lab, and just talking to people is a challenge :-)

I have a newer design that is easier to assemble and allows to replace the usb cable easily. I will update the STL files very soon

Thank you for you kind words. If you build it, share picture!

I disagree. Most of people and most of the time we use only 1 or 2 power sources, much more often than 3 or 4. All good brands know this so they don't split the power rails.

Wow, you are right. It's crazy how time passes by

Using PowerPoint. Not the ideal software for that, but it's good enough

The question about when to use pull-up or pull-down resistors is very simple. If the device (in this case the hall effect) output gives a ground signal, then we should use a pull-up resistor. If the device outputs voltage when it send a signal, then we need to add a pull-down resistor. For this case, the A3144 output signal is ground so I added a pull-up resistor to keep it HIGH when there's no signal.

@@interlinkknight ok I think I got it! So to give the arduino a steady signal while the sensor if “off” state, we use a resistor which pulls opposite to the sensor’s output signal type? So I guess the sensor’s signal is “stronger” than the voltage given into the arduino by the resistor therefore it is overcome by the sensor output signal?

Also if I use pull up or pull down , do I need to change in the code the attachToInterrupt to be rising if I’m using pull down, and falling if I’m using pull up?

That's correct. The rising or falling is pretty much irrelevant

@@interlinkknight Ok super! many thanks, one last question, If I use for example NPN with pull-up and "FALLING" it must be a NO, otherwise if it's NC i need to write "RISING", is that correct?

I repaired after the video so it's fine

Oh. I thought it’s destroyed. Good thing you can use it 😃

@@interlinkknightHow didn’t it turned on when you tested the switches?

In that moment it didn't have power

I have no idea

@@interlinkknight ok

As far I know this example should work the same way in the ESP32

Excellent. Share pictures ;)

You could run that program without affecting the tachometer code because the tachometer counts the pulses using interrupts that are not affected by the main loop

You would have to convert that high voltage of the spark plug to 5V. Also check that the signal is clean (no spikes or multiple HIGH/LOW on a single pulse). Then, it should work

You're welcome 😊

It's also a TFT 1.8" ST7735 as I mentioned, but the module looks a little difference. There are 3 variations that I know of.

I guess you can return it

Pins are selected in the top of the sketch and usually we use hardware pins so they can't be charged. This is made for Arduino uno and nano. You need to find a Library for raspberry pi pico

You can always do anything you want with the display

@interlinkknight Can you advise how you would shift it to the center ? Thanks

Do you mean the OLED display? You would have to put a few if statements that if RPM is between 0 and 9 the text x position is a value in the center. If RPM is between 10 and 99 the text x position is a value in the center. If RPM is between 100 and 999 the text x position is a value in the center. Etc.

Glad it was helpful!

yes, it can be done with this display

It's simple. The nextion editor has a variable and then I run a timer (loop) that runs a piece of code that puts the correct image depending on the value of the variable. If you open my project, you'll see

It seems the website is down. I guess we can try later

First, follow my troubleshooting video

I'm sorry. You are right. I forgot to publish the instructables article. Here it is: www.instructables.com/Photo-Frame-With-Epaper-Color-Display/

Sadly, no. The only way to have a longer cable is having a larger distance between the top and the bottom. What I did is putting it on the bed headboard so I have more distance and I love it

It’s possible. You just need to add another roll in your pully. Just look up different configurations.

I tried that and it didn't work

Trial and error. There's a part in the code that changes this depending on the speed.

Not sure where you found that. I just checked and in the arduino website shows: UNO R3, UNO R3 SMD, UNO WiFi Rev2, UNO Mini Ltd Pins: 10(CS), 11(COPI), 12(CIPO), 13(SCK) Either way, they are mostly configurable. BTW, there is no pin 14 on Arduino UNO R3

I don't recommend adding another sensor. To read low speed you just need more magnets in the wheel/shaft. The more pulses per revolution, the lower RPM you can measure

I guess the font file is too old for the new version of the editor. Try creating your own font and use that instead

@@interlinkknight Thank you so much for reply , yes i did the same and it is done but when i go to debug it will show that: simulator has very low brightness and i am using intelling version of nextion lcd

Hello it is solve , actually i remove the slider and it's code from 2nd page and preintialized event code from home page too and now it is working , thank you so much really these videos are too good and i subcribed to your channle for more videos.

I'm glad you got it working. Cheers

You would have to have the exact same cluster so the connection could be useful, because there is no standard about this, at least in the one I have. I've seen people controlling clusters with arduino but for newer models that have standard protocols.

The closest thing is the Inkplate 6Color from Soldered. They sell the epaper display with the esp32 included. I made a video about it

@@interlinkknight thank you 👌🏾

@@interlinkknightsorry I might be blind. Can you send me e the link of that video?